This look was developed through a structured hybrid process involving both physical and digital tools:
Tailoring and physical pattern drafting guided the silhouette and structural logic of the jacket and accessories.
Digital reconstruction in CLO3D enabled fit validation, layering tests, and strap integration planning.
Cloth simulation and behavior studies were carried out in Marvelous Designer, focused on belt tension, sleeve binding, and layering accuracy.
Final garment construction was refined using insights from simulation.
CONCEPT & DESIGN
This piece bridges the introspective with the institutional, representing the conflict between the human need for help and the dehumanization. It’s a commentary on vulnerability, resistance, and identity within systems of control.
PATTERN DEVELOPMENT
Asylum consists of a digitally tailored ensemble combining hard and soft materials, constructed in Marvelous Designer & CLO3D (for physical patterns export) and optimized for multi-layer simulation. The outer garment is a fitted white jacquard blazer, digitally printed with Plath's Tulips, and integrated with a corset made of raw Piñatex, held by four structured belts that replicate straitjacket binding. The inner bodysuit was designed as a separate layer, completed with a shirt collar and a 8-button placket. A leg garter accessory will be added later to preserve form in houdini using a pointdeform node.
Hand-drafted pattern
CLO3D Viewport
CLO3D PREVIEWS
At this stage, buckles and metallic details were omitted from the simulation to avoid unnecessary collision calculations and improve performance.
These components will be added post-simulation in Houdini, using the high-resolution meshes attached via pointdeform nodes.
CLOTH SIM
IN CONSTRUCTION
DIGITAL PRINTING LAYOUT
The typographic layout was created directly on the 2D sewing patterns exported from CLO3D, with seam allowances and construction logic fully accounted for.
This approach ensured the legibility and continuity of the poem after assembly, even across darts, folds, and seamlines.
This approach ensured the legibility and continuity of the poem after assembly, even across darts, folds, and seamlines.
The final design was printed using a large-format digital fabric printer, allowing precise ink application while preserving the texture and structure of the jacquard.
After printing, the panels were manually cut and assembled following the digital construction plan, maintaining alignment between the printed text and the physical garment structure.
After printing, the panels were manually cut and assembled following the digital construction plan, maintaining alignment between the printed text and the physical garment structure.
TULIPS - By Sylvia Plath (FRAGMENT)
The tulips are too excitable, it is winter here.
Look how white everything is, how quiet, how snowed-in.
I am learning peacefulness, lying by myself quietly
As the light lies on these white walls, this bed, these hands.
I am nobody; I have nothing to do with explosions.
I have given my name and my day-clothes up to the nurses
And my history to the anesthetist and my body to surgeons.
They have propped my head between the pillow and the sheet-cuff
Like an eye between two white lids that will not shut.
Stupid pupil, it has to take everything in.
The nurses pass and pass, they are no trouble,
They pass the way gulls pass inland in their white caps,
Doing things with their hands, one just the same as another,
So it is impossible to tell how many there are.
My body is a pebble to them, they tend it as water
Tends to the pebbles it must run over, smoothing them gently.
They bring me numbness in their bright needles, they bring me sleep.
Now I have lost myself I am sick of baggage——
My patent leather overnight case like a black pillbox,
My husband and child smiling out of the family photo;
Their smiles catch onto my skin, little smiling hooks.
I have let things slip, a thirty-year-old cargo boat
stubbornly hanging on to my name and address.
They have swabbed me clear of my loving associations.
Scared and bare on the green plastic-pillowed trolley
I watched my teaset, my bureaus of linen, my books
Sink out of sight, and the water went over my head.
I am a nun now, I have never been so pure.
I didn’t want any flowers, I only wanted
To lie with my hands turned up and be utterly empty.
How free it is, you have no idea how free——
The peacefulness is so big it dazes you,
And it asks nothing, a name tag, a few trinkets.
It is what the dead close on, finally; I imagine them
Shutting their mouths on it, like a Communion tablet.
FINAL GARMENT
Model: Ivana Burianová -- 📷 Tomáš Kouba